Any way to make the muzzle walls thicker just in the slicer? I use 0.8 nozzle for main base and jaw and the muzzle was only 2 walls thick with 0.8, switched to 0.4 and it's now 3 walls but still too thin and fragile. Both pla and petg breaks in the muzzle with slight pressure. I don't particularly enjoy using tpu or flexible pla for these prints so I'm at a loss of what to do here.
I know that on a finished head any cracks to the base would show no damage on the outside(unless crushed hard I guess) if a head is well made, but I would prefer to know that the suit's skeleton won't crack under slight pressure. Particularly at the muzzle
At 3-6 walls thick they shouldn't be brittle (they're 3 in some areas, supported by a framework of 5-6 wall thick reinforcement in other areas). If you're having issues with brittle/cracked prints in areas that are 3+ walls thick, you may be having extrusion issues or your filament may be humid (moisture causes most filaments to bubble and pop)
if you're worried you can also coat the inside in plasti-dip or similar material (which can sort of self-heal minor cracks)
Any ridged headbase will not be indestructible without being extremely thick/heavy (be it 3D printed, resin cast, or fiberglass/carbon-fiber) so if you want a base you can step on, you'll need to use foam.
It's only cracking at the muzzle where there's only 3 walls, interior, exterior and middle. It's really weird and I've never seen other bases be so thin at that part that's why I was asking.
I only get cracks when my printer is having issues, or my slicer profile is bad. Every design has been test-printed successfully (that's how I take photos) and I have used several of these (including the dire wolf) for finished heads
I have seen them printed successfully in TPU, but I would not personally recommend it.
Generally TPU heads are designed to be thicker, so they can be printed as infill-only. I assume that helps with the heat issues (TPU bases can be hotter to wear than foam or PLA/PETG) and messiness of the material.
Hey there! I love these bases, though I wanted to ask. Do you recommend supports for them? I've been printing them on an Anycubic Kobra V2 and I've always used tree supports for them, printing nose up, but I've always had a hell of a time getting them out without making the insides super rough or pulling away at the filament. I've had to sand them in the past but it adds a ton of work.
(Looking to print the fox for my boyfriend and the wolf for me!)
For my prints I used 1 separation layer (default is 2) between the tree supports and the actual model. I also have the tree-tip diameter the same as the extrusion width / nozzle diameter.
Post-print I use tiny diagonal cutters (same kind used for snipping wires in electronics) to break the trees off as close as possible, and needlenose pliers to snap off any leftover nubs of tree.
I have no plans for breaking up these sets to sell the files individually. If I have stand-alone heads available at a later date they would still be $15-20. These are packaged to reduce the number of listings on my page and make designs easier to find.
So! I have mixed reviews over using these models for the past year or so. They're great overall! But... they tend to have some hiccups.
Canines: You'll need to go in and "Solidify" them by .25mm because the walls are so thin in some spots that it leaves gaps in the filament.
Also? The skulldog set? The top jaw parts are completely hollow and need to be modified to be solid. Will absolutely fail on your printer and make spaghetti nonsense. Took me ages to diagnose what was going on until I realized it was only printing one wall and using zero infill.
Straight out of the box? 2/5 stars Once they're modified and fixed? 5/5 starts. Super popular on my shop and consistently getting orders.
Looking forward to getting more bases from this shop!
I'm sorry you're having issues with your printers or print settings, but I've successfully printed every headbase I sell with no issue (the sample photos are at-scale, successful prints.) Every base will print successfully with a raft or large brim (depending on your bed surface), and the only base that will require support is the skulldog.
Thank you for these quality bases! I'll be starting my print soon. I was hoping to get a quick pointer, how do you make use of the eyelids? I am assuming you are mounting a few magnets to the eyelid, and a few to match it on the underside of the brow ridge, inside of the base itself. Just curious if that matches up with your preference/usage for it.
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(Dire Base atm but is a problem with all of them)
Any way to make the muzzle walls thicker just in the slicer? I use 0.8 nozzle for main base and jaw and the muzzle was only 2 walls thick with 0.8, switched to 0.4 and it's now 3 walls but still too thin and fragile. Both pla and petg breaks in the muzzle with slight pressure. I don't particularly enjoy using tpu or flexible pla for these prints so I'm at a loss of what to do here.
I know that on a finished head any cracks to the base would show no damage on the outside(unless crushed hard I guess) if a head is well made, but I would prefer to know that the suit's skeleton won't crack under slight pressure. Particularly at the muzzle
At 3-6 walls thick they shouldn't be brittle (they're 3 in some areas, supported by a framework of 5-6 wall thick reinforcement in other areas). If you're having issues with brittle/cracked prints in areas that are 3+ walls thick, you may be having extrusion issues or your filament may be humid (moisture causes most filaments to bubble and pop)
if you're worried you can also coat the inside in plasti-dip or similar material (which can sort of self-heal minor cracks)
Any ridged headbase will not be indestructible without being extremely thick/heavy (be it 3D printed, resin cast, or fiberglass/carbon-fiber) so if you want a base you can step on, you'll need to use foam.
It's only cracking at the muzzle where there's only 3 walls, interior, exterior and middle. It's really weird and I've never seen other bases be so thin at that part that's why I was asking.
I only get cracks when my printer is having issues, or my slicer profile is bad.
Every design has been test-printed successfully (that's how I take photos) and I have used several of these (including the dire wolf) for finished heads
I was wondering if anyone has had a chance to print one of these with TPU yet? I'm looking at updating my suit ^^;
I have seen them printed successfully in TPU, but I would not personally recommend it.
Generally TPU heads are designed to be thicker, so they can be printed as infill-only. I assume that helps with the heat issues (TPU bases can be hotter to wear than foam or PLA/PETG) and messiness of the material.
Would these be compatible with TPU?
Would you be open to making a borzoi/ or sight hound base?
Hey there! I love these bases, though I wanted to ask. Do you recommend supports for them? I've been printing them on an Anycubic Kobra V2 and I've always used tree supports for them, printing nose up, but I've always had a hell of a time getting them out without making the insides super rough or pulling away at the filament. I've had to sand them in the past but it adds a ton of work.
(Looking to print the fox for my boyfriend and the wolf for me!)
For my prints I used 1 separation layer (default is 2) between the tree supports and the actual model. I also have the tree-tip diameter the same as the extrusion width / nozzle diameter.
Post-print I use tiny diagonal cutters (same kind used for snipping wires in electronics) to break the trees off as close as possible, and needlenose pliers to snap off any leftover nubs of tree.
I only use supports for the nose and eyelids. The head will print fine without support, but I do use a raft to keep it from falling over.
Do I still have to pay the full 25 dollars if I only want a singular pattern from the Canine 1.0 set?
I have no plans for breaking up these sets to sell the files individually. If I have stand-alone heads available at a later date they would still be $15-20. These are packaged to reduce the number of listings on my page and make designs easier to find.
Got it, thanks ^^
So! I have mixed reviews over using these models for the past year or so. They're great overall! But... they tend to have some hiccups.
Canines: You'll need to go in and "Solidify" them by .25mm because the walls are so thin in some spots that it leaves gaps in the filament.
Also? The skulldog set? The top jaw parts are completely hollow and need to be modified to be solid. Will absolutely fail on your printer and make spaghetti nonsense. Took me ages to diagnose what was going on until I realized it was only printing one wall and using zero infill.
Straight out of the box? 2/5 stars
Once they're modified and fixed? 5/5 starts.
Super popular on my shop and consistently getting orders.
Looking forward to getting more bases from this shop!
I'm sorry you're having issues with your printers or print settings, but I've successfully printed every headbase I sell with no issue (the sample photos are at-scale, successful prints.)
Every base will print successfully with a raft or large brim (depending on your bed surface), and the only base that will require support is the skulldog.
Thank you for these quality bases! I'll be starting my print soon.
I was hoping to get a quick pointer, how do you make use of the eyelids? I am assuming you are mounting a few magnets to the eyelid, and a few to match it on the underside of the brow ridge, inside of the base itself. Just curious if that matches up with your preference/usage for it.
Again, thank you very much!
2 magnets on the eyelid (one on each end) and a matching pair inside the base
Nice work Maim!
Great to work with!
Amazing work!!
Amazing work on these!